Friday, September 4, 2009

Sweaters for the Unconvinced

The last weekend of August is always an exciting occasion for me. I bring all of my fall clothing out of storage, air them out for a few days, and hang them up in my closet. Soon (though not soon enough), it will be cool enough to wear an Oxford and a tweed blazer to class--or a shirt and tie with one of my favorite sweaters on top.

I love sweaters. October through March (and often into April, depending on the tenacity of the Northeastern winter) I will work a sweater into my outfit at least 3 days out of the week. Wool and cashmere blends alone or with a jacket stylishly keep me warm on colder days, while a light cotton or cotton/cashmere tempers the chilliness of early spring. I'll layer them and be able to knock my thermostat down a few degrees. Sweaters are practically proof of the existence of a higher power, except not quite.

For those of you whose only memories of sweaters involve a fat man in a red velour suit sitting outside the Radio Shack in the local mall, be not afraid. Things have changed. Sweaters today are a more sophisticated alternative to a hoodie or a sweatshirt. Even tossed over a t-shirt with jeans, a simple crew-neck can bring an outfit from a casual day around the house to a surprise visit by your partner's parents.


Several Species of Sweaters

There are several main types of sweaters, and many different materials to consider when making a purchase. People with sensitive skin will be glad to know that the days of itchy days of thick wool sweaters have long since passed. Wool has been spun and knit softer now, and cashmere/cotton blends are luxurious and affordable. Classic shapes and patterns continue to dominate the market, but the traditional designs below have been slimmed down for a more contemporary look:
  • The Crew Neck versus the V-Neck. The crew neck is classic for a reason. The neckline is rounded, often with a line of ribbing to keep it from rolling. Excellent for tossing over a t-shirt or wearing on its own. However, if you plan on layering your sweater over a collared shirt, a v-neck sweater is going to be more comfortable. The lower neckline also leaves room for a tie, or to undo one or two of the top buttons on your shirt.
  • The Cardigan. Best known as worn by the late Mister Rogers, the cardigan has become popular again. Toss over a t-shirt with a pair of slim jeans and high-tops for a sporty look. To keep it modern, avoid slouchy, heavy knits--a cardigan is, by nature, a layer and should be light. Casual occasions call for it to be unbuttoned.
  • The Cable-Knit. Traditionally the attire of blue-blooded prepsters and their kin, cable knits can be worn to suit anyone, even if your great-great-grandfather didn't donate a wing to Yale. Worn in a bright hue over a coordinating shirt is a great way to add a splash of color to an otherwise grey winter morning. Perfect to pair with anything from jeans to a suit. (Just avoid embroidering yours with the Harvard crest, lest your great-great-grandfather start rolling in his grave.)
  • The Sweater Vest. Still the epitome of geek-chic attire, it requires a bit of finesse to pull off. Not sure if you've got it? Try out the look with a simple solid-color vest over a coordinating striped button-down and jeans or khakis. Progress from there, varying your colors and patterns as it suits you.
  • The Fair Isle. This particular pattern is named for a small island to the north of Scotland, but its origins remain a mystery. It became popular in the early 20th century and has remained in some form or another ever since. To ensure your outfit looks more appropriate for the ski lodge than the Cosby house, keep your Fair Isle to a minimum (two rows on an otherwise plain sweater) and in a muted color like navy, grey, or brown. Wear with jeans or plain trousers, alone or with an understated shirt.
  • The Irish Fisherman. This type of sweater, often just called a "fisherman," refers to a type of cabling used by fishermen's mothers and wives to make sweaters for their loved ones. Families would often create their own patterns. These sweaters are typically made from wool in a solid natural color, but variations can be found. Despite their simplicity and beauty, these sweaters do not have much mass-market appeal, and can be pricier for it.


Layering a sweater with a shirt and tie or underneath a blazer is a
great way to add some versatility to your wardrobe and warmth for you.


Where and How to Get a Sweater
  • The best sweaters are lovingly hand-knit by a dear relative, friend, or lover. If a skilled knitter offers to make you a sweater, do them the favor of giving them accurate measurements and some hints with regards to your personal style. Upon receiving the sweater, pay them back in kind. Money is outrĂ©, but a few jars of homemade jam would reflect the time and care gone into such a gift. At the very least, buy them a nice dinner. Faraway relatives may be content with a handwritten note and a photograph.
  • Most of my sweaters have come from the clearance racks of the Gap, which I highly recommend checking out once in a while. Most of mine were bought when I worked at the mall and was able to duck around the corner on my break to browse what had been recently marked down. Example: I was able to buy several cotton/cashmere sweaters for $9 each last year. Regularly, their sweaters tend to be in the $40-60 range.
  • If you tend to be more traditional/conservative/preppy in your wardrobe (I tend to be so), I have heard wonderful things about Lands' End's sweaters. My brother wore Lands' End for his school uniform for several years, gave them a beating every day, and they still look presentable. Unfortunately, they rarely go on sale. A cotton sweater will run you about $50; wool, $80; and pure cashmere, upwards of $125.
  • If for ethical reasons or matters of personal taste chain stores don't suit you, I have also had luck with thrift and second-hand stores. Returns may be more complicated than a retail store or not allowed at all, so remember to carefully check any purchases for stains and damages before buying. Ensure that the knit is tight and there aren't any visible "pulls." Also be sure to check the fabric content and cleaning instructions. Clothing at thrift stores is often priced at a flat rate for each piece, so wouldn't you rather pay $5 for a cashmere sweater than a cheap synthetic knit?
  • When buying a sweater, make sure to wear a button-down to the shop, or bring one with you. It will help you to better determine a proper fit, as well as helping to see how the neckline and cuffs will suit your favorite shirt.
A sweater is a versatile addition to any fall wardrobe, regardless of color, material, or construction, as long as it suits your personal style. Of course, if you still have a deep desire to own a terrible holiday sweater (preferably one with a pom-pom for Rudolph's nose), check the back of your mum's closet.

Photos: porkchoprules, frazernash, missmarek

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